Sunday, 21 August 2011

How To: Winged Eyeliner

Other than contouring, the subject of eyeliner happens to be the second most talked about by fellow bloggers and Twitter friends. So hopefully this will help enlighten the shroud of mystery of how to apply and get the perfect liner. Now bearing in mind we're going for the strong liner look like Kate Moss in the Dior Addict Lipstick ad.

What comes second nature to me in application happens to be a bit of a stumbling block for many. The problems I hear are what if I have a slightly droopy lid or not enough lid etc. To which I answer, start doing the liner from the outside in. Meet our test subject Model A (I can't remember her name).
Notice how there's very little space towards the outside of her eye, between the lash line and crease. Problem? Maybe, but nothing a bit of cleverness can't help. Now let's see Model A in the final look with liner and then we'll get to specifics. Here's what we're aiming for in terms of the liner.
Nice huh? So in as few and as descriptive words I can muster, I will try and explain what I did.  

1. Looking straight into mirror, using a black liner pencil, draw the flick first on the outside. As you want the liner to look when your eyes are opened. Stop when you hit the crease. The top of the flick is usually horizontal to ground level and you end up with a elongated triangle on it's side.
2. Using cotton buds dipped in any Micellar cleansing water, tidy up the shape and how long or flicked you want the liner to be.
3. Now starting from the inner eye, start lining, using the pencil still till you get to the point where you can't go any further and you have to start joining the flick.
4. Always look into mirror and check constantly the thickness and flow of the liner whilst lining.
5. With one eye closed, join the flick and the rest of the liner. This will almost always result in a slight dip and the overall shape of the liner will look like half of the batman signal. (well in my head it is!)
6. Using more cotton buds with cleansing water, clean up the shape and when you're happy, go over with your liner of choice. I usually press a black shadow onto the pencil first and then  gel liner to get the deepest blackest liner possible.

Here's a close up:
Products used: MAC Kohl Pencil in Smolder, MAC eye shadow in Carbon, MAC Fluid Line in Blacktrack, MUJI mini cotton buds, La Roche-Posay Physiological Micellar Solution.

I hope this helps with any liner issues. You just have to practice a bit and this will become second nature. As always questions and comments are highly encouraged. Good luck and I would love to hear how your attempts go!  


23 comments:

  1. Thanks for this. You probably remember going over this with me a long time ago complete with examples on your own eye?

    I've given up. Clearly winged liner and myself are never meant to be. It's not that the steps aren't clear enough, they are, its just my cack-handedness. I suck xx

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  2. @Charlie: Haha bless you and I hope that picture of me with eyeliner never surfaces on the net! I still say keep practicing as you're amazing with nails so you're obviously not cack-handed! x

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  3. Thanks for the liquid liner tip - I am a klutz!

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  4. @Jamilla: Hah I doubt it J! I've seen your pics, you're pretty amazing with makeup! Thanks for the comment! xx

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  5. Thank you for this, I never manage to get it right but tonight I will practice and see if I can improve my technique. I think I give up too easily! x

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  6. Loved it!! I hope to get the Micellar cleansing water some day! How have u been??

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  7. @Lipstick Luvvie: Thanks hon! I am glad you found this useful. Yeah don't give up, keep practicing ok? x

    @Neeraj: You should! It's such a great item to have for fine touching details and tidying up little mistakes without upsetting the makeup. I'm great thanks. x

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  8. Thankyou for showing this on a different shaped eye, heredity has a lot to answer for, unfortunately being at least 25yrs older than your beautiful model, any wing I attempt is lost in the folds that are my eyelids! Still I can admire it on those with a younger, tauter lid. Thankyou for your tips. Jan

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  9. @Jan: you're very welcome and you're right. It's not always possible to do everything on everyone but there's other things we can achieve. Thank you for taking the time to read and comment. X

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  10. I love how you've done the flick on your model. It seems like there are a million and one ways to flick and it's nice to see it done by a pro.

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  11. @Jen W: You're so right, I have seen so many ways of doing the flick! This one is for show season for when liner needs to look fierce with eyes opened. Not your regular smooth liner. Thanks for reading and commenting! x

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  12. AMAZING!!! I clearly need your help!

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  13. Old Cow: Thanks, you're very very kind! XX

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  14. @Claire McDonnell: Thanks hon, x

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  15. i think eyeliner can look soo gorgeous! <3
    i love the pulled out cat eye :P but thats me

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  16. Ohhh I remember us discussing this on Twitter and have only just seen this thread. Amazing - I will try this tomorrow. You make it look and sound so easy though I bet it's not! Love this model's finished look... what did you use under her eye? This is an area I struggle with as I look so wrong if it's too heavy, yet I feel I need 'something' to balance out a dramatic upper lid liner - maybe I'm wrong?

    I spent aggges trying Cameron Diaz style liner today and would have frightened small children by the end. I actually had to remove it before my own saw me lol!

    Sorry for the ramble and thanks for this great post!

    Nic x

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  17. @Strawberry Blonde: yes I remember too hence the 1st chance I got to do this look I did. Hope it helps. I used a bit of taupe applied under the eyelashes to create soft definition. And you can ramble anytime Nic! XX

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  18. @MrAJBx3: I love a good liner! Anyday! xx

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  19. Thanks for your reply - I'll try a softer colour under the eye next time. x

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  20. @Strawberry Blonde: Pls Nic twitpic your attempt! I'd love to see. x

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  21. Finally tried it! Am now addicted! You will probably see me with winged liner every day till I die now! PS, her name is Charlie! Ha ha! x

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  22. @Rebecca: Haha great! I expect to see you in full winged splendour! Oh Yes! Charlie, how could I forget? x

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