Saturday, 5 May 2012

Before/After: Return To The Smokey Eye

Smokey Eyes, probably the most popular makeup look ever, contested closely only by the flicked liner look. To be honest I haven't really done a proper smokey eye for awhile so it was rather lovely to be able to get to do 2 in the same week!

Although classed as smokey eyes, I deliberately did both looks quite different, to show that there's always variations in a theme. And that there's always something for anybody.

The first is Emily and my brief was red carpet smokey. I wanted it quite fashiony but yet very beautiful and groomed. I also wanted to keep it looking young so I kept Emily's skin dewy and brows undefined and brushed up. And to carry on the young and slightly nonchalant vibe, I applied layers and layers of black mascara. Meet Emily.
Face Prep: UNE Radiance Refresh Micellar Cleansing Water, Emma Hardie Hydrating Lighter Lotion, Clarins Beauty Flash Balm, Rodial Glam Balm Lip.
 
As you can see, Emily has lovely skin and big eyes and lovely features. The focus of the look is definitely a smokey eye so I kept the lips clean and balmed, to once again bring the look back into a non made-up makeup look. Here's Emily all made up.
Face: YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat, YSL Touche Éclat.  
Eyes: YSL Waterproof Eye Pencil in Patent Leather and Black Ink, Tom Ford Cognac Sable Eye Palette, Chanel Illusion D'Ombre in Fantasme & Mirifique, YSL Volume Effet Faux Cils Shocking Mascara in Deep Black.
Eyebrows: MAC Clear BrowFix.
Cheeks: Tom Ford Shade & Illuminate.
Lips: Rodial Glam Balm Lip, Chanel Illusion D'Ombre in Fantasme.
Powder: SUQQU Nuancing Loose Powder in Natural.

Here's a close up.
What do you guys think? I think this smokey would be perfect for someone who's new to a smokey eye as it is tempered with brown to prevent it from looking too "black". Just remember to keep other parts of the face youthful so it balances the grown up eyes.

Now for the second Smokey Eye, I'd like to introduce you to Bridgett. 
Face Prep: Une Radiance Refresh Micellar Cleansing Water, Emma Hardie Hydrating Lighter Lotion, Clarins Beauty Flash Balm, Rodial Glam Balm Lip.
 
Gorgeous Bridgett from Sweden has a gorgeous face of full features so for this fashion shoot, I wanted a really intense, dark and big smokey eye. But yet beautiful, what other way is there to be? I took the shadow further out and up than what I would usually do on most people. That way it looked almost like a mask but kept it gorgeous by blending the edges. I intensified the smoke after we tested lighting as it wasn't strong enough. Have a look.
Face: YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat, YSL Touche Éclat, Le Maquillage Make Up Mixer.
Eyes: YSL Waterproof Eye Pencil in Black Ink, YSL Pure Chromatics Palettes 8 & 9, YSL Luxurious Mascara Shocking Volume in Deep Black. 
Eyebrows: Just brushed.
Cheeks: Tom Ford Shade & Illuminate.
Lips: YSL Rouge Pur Couture in Blond Ingénu, Madina Shiny Stick in 001.

And now the close up with flash on set. I used no powder and kept the skin quite wet by applying fine layers of Makeup Mixer to catch the light.
Isn't she gorgeous? I love how smoldery she looks, almost a throw back to the 90s glamazonian Supermodels!  Definitely a smokey eye variation for the more daring! 

There you go, two variations of the smokey eye and if you give me chance, I can probably come up with another 10 more! Which would you go for yourself? As always comments and questions are very welcomed!  

 

28 comments:

  1. going out tonight so will try the first look :) thanks! x

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    1. Thanks Kia! Send us a pic after you're done? X

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  2. HOT HOT HOT!!!! LOVE both looks but man I can't believe how much you made her (what I thought were) small eyes stand out. What is the blue shade? I don't remember the YSL 8 or 9 palettes having a blue?

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    1. Thanks lovely! Yeah I deliberately left the waterline unlined so as to open up the eyes a bit more. Only works if you go really strong around to "carve" out a new eye so to speak. What blue hon? I think the blended black may carry that slight bluish tinge as i also blended a bit of gun metal in there as well. x

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    2. Weird on my monitor if you look at the closeup it looks very blue. Must just be a trick of the light. Thanks!

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  3. Hot as hell! Sexiest smokey eye eva!

    Nic xx

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  4. ps I mean Emily - the first one with your golden touch x

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  5. Your skills are out of this world! Please do my make up next :P

    xo

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  6. What blue? I can't see blue?..

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    1. Hey Sandra I think it's because I blended out the black and added a hint of gun metal grey which might cast a little bluish tinge.

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    2. Oh heavens maybe I'm losing my mind! Either that or I need to calibrate my monitor! On Bridgett in the strip of three pics, the 3rd pic that is a closeup on the outer portion of her eye I see blue. Not even just a hint but quite a bit. Yikes. I am concerned for my sanity at this point. LOL Am I seriously the only one that sees it?

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    3. Haha you're not exactly wrong, that's the gunmetal from one of the palettes and yes it does have a certain blue tinge to it. Sorry my fault. Good eye! x

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  7. Oh my how stunning! You did beautiful work on both models. You have me interested in the shade and illuminate. I am 47 with a round face and little but of double chin (I have always had this even when a size 5). I am also fair and pink toned. Do you think the shade and illuminate would be something I could use? Ever coming to Michigan? I would love to have you do my makeup.

    Tammy

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    1. Hi Tammy, first of all thank you for your kind words. Now let's talk about shading. I have a round face too, keeps us young looking so don't worry. Now shading in real life tends to be slightly tricky as the light of day is usually quite bright. It works best for let's say evenings or nights out where the light is gentler and casts lovely shadows to hide all our insecurities. For the day I would suggest applying a little highlighter on top of cheekbones to create a lift and hence cause the skin under to look like a natural contour. The problem with TF Shade & illuminate is staying power. Fine for shoots but you have to apply gently to create a natural effect. I would try maybe with a little shading powder or bronzer with no shimmer to see if you like it? It's a wonderful product when used correctly. Who knows? Our paths might cross. Thanks again for the comment x

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  8. Both girls look absolutely gorgeous but if I had to choose a look for me I think I'd go for the second look. How talented you are, thank you for posting xx

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    1. Thanks lovely and yes I'd probably go for the 2nd one too! Hehe thanks for the comment! x

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  9. Utterly gorgeous! I love both looks but I would go for the second one purely because it's crazier (in a good way :)). It instantly changes Bridgett's face. She looks super-confident!xx

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    1. You're so right and I would probably go for the same but I can't seeing they're both my creations but I get your drift! x

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  10. I visit your site and reads your post it's the great information for me thanks for posting

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    1. You're very welcome and thank you for reading my blog posts x

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  11. Hi! Your work is truly inspired and extremely well executed! I do have two questions though. First, are you sure is Mirifique that you used on the first models lips? Secondly, Could you tell me the blending brush you used/use?

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    1. Oh my word, Dhante you're right! Sorry. Haha mistake. I meant Fantasme applied on the cupid's bow. As for the blending bush, do you mean brush I use on the eyes? If so, it's usually involves a MAC 217 and then a longer fluffier like a Louise Young 38B for the edges and also a fingers. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment x

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    2. Yes, I did mean for the eyes... So sorry for the vagueness of that question! That really helps a alot actually. BTW, I am a makeup artist as well, I work at a YSL And Giorgio Armani Counter in the States, so, It's a real treat for me to see you use the products and gain inspiration from you!

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    3. Well thanks for getting in touch, I love chatting and learning from other makeup artists. Thank you x

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  12. hey this is a great art but don't you have any eye makeup tips for boys.

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    1. Hi Ammey, you've got a point! I shall do a post as soon as I work with a guy ok? Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

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