Sunday, 31 March 2013

Before/After: One Face Two Looks/All About Colour & Texture

So Spring is upon us, apparently... although cold and frosty still and Easter has come and gone, work waits for no one and I'm already shooting Spring/Summer looks. A few weeks back I was asked to create a few looks for a Spring shoot. I didn't want to go down the route of flushed cheeks and glossy skin again so I decided to play with textures instead. What do I mean by textures? Think matte, glossy, semi-matte, dewy, they're all textures. It's a great way of doing a normal everyday look and making it look modern and with a twist.

Without further delay, let's meet Monika.

Face Prep: Lancome Galatéis Douceur Soft Cleansing Fluid, Bioderma Crealine H2O, Emma Hardie Lighter Hydrating Lotion, Bioderma Sébium Pore Refiner, Emma Hardie Moringa & Rose Treatment Lip Balm.

Monika's a beauty and is stunning without much help from me. Her skin is however slightly oily with a few dilated pores. So I had the chance to use my new Bioderma product which I got a few days ago. It acted like a primer by smoothing over the skin and creating a silky soft canvas to work on.

For the first look, I wanted to use neutral colours and creating a warm healthy brown look but then add on a dewy texture onto the eyes to give it a gloss and catch the light. 
Foundation: CK One 3 in 1 Face Makeup, Givenchy Mister Light.
Eyes: MAC Paintpots in Ground Work, CK One Gloss Eye Colour in 800 Ultra, Suqqu Eyeliner Creamy in Brown, Clarins Wonder Length Mascara in Black, Chanel Illusion D'Ombre in Fantasme, Bourjois Effet 3D Lipgloss in Brun Poétic.
Eyebrows: Anastasia Brow Wiz in Ash Blonde, MAC Clear Brow Fix.
Cheeks: Chanel Bronze Universal, Madina Shiny Stick in 001.
Lips: CK One Pure Colour Lipstick in 410 Wanted, CK One Gloss Eye Colour in 800 Ultra.
Powder: Jurlique Rose Silk Finishing Powder.

Here's a close up with a hard flash to really see the effect of all the gloss on the eye and skin.
For the second look I wanted to use colour but soft pastels and in powdery textures instead and maybe keep the glossiness somewhere unexpected. So I use sorbet-like colours that were pure and glowy to make sure it didn't look too washed out and dabbed bright coloured lipstick randomly to create a blurred but distinct mouth.
Face: Same as above.
Eyes: An assortment of Shu Uemura Shadows in Mauve, Lilac, Pink and Greys, MAC Pro Paint Stick in White, 3 coats of Clarins Wonder Length Mascara in Black.
Eyebrows: Estee Lauder Maximum Cover Foundation.
Cheeks: MAC Lip Glass.
Lips: Top Shop Creme Lipcolour in Tawny, MAC Lipmix in Orange, MAC Lipstick in Pink Nouveau, CK One Gloss Eye Colour in 800 Ultra.
Powder: Jurlique Rose Finishing Powder.

Here's a close up of the lips. Someone commented that it was an homage to Pointillism, an art movement/technique of dotting colours to form an image and I suppose it is to a certain degree! 
And a shot of the gloss on the cheeks to catch light.
So what do you think? Does it say Spring to you? As always I love getting feedback and comments. Thanks guys!


Saturday, 16 March 2013

CK One: Brand Revisited & Face Of The Week

In it's 3rd incarnation I think, CK One is on a roll. It's been many years since Calvin Klein first delved into cosmetics. I will admit I am the last one to actually know and try any of the products in any of it's various stages. So when sent a recent collection to trial for work, I set about running it through it's paces. And I LOVE it!

The CK image is always one of clean, pure lines with a slight minimalist edge to it, I think. So it seems to reason that they would approach their cosmetic venture with this philosophy. As far as I can see, and this is through playing with the few bits I have and also looking at the Debenhams website where they are currently sold, colours seem crisp and pure with no wishy washy shades. I will look into the range properly in the next few weeks but 2 items currently catch my eye from which I was sent.
CK One Powder Eyeshadow Quad 100 Nymphete
Nestled inside a sturdy plastic and rubber palette lies 4 gorgeously wearable eyeshadows in a matte pale pink, a matte dusky pink, a glittery champagne and a shimmery coppery rouge. At first glance I thought the champagne looked a bit too glittery for my liking but when applied and pressed in with a finger, it melted to a wearable gilt that is perfect for adding a shine.

 £25.00 in Debenhams online in 9 colour combinations.

CK One Gloss Eyecolour 800 Ultra
A sturdy chunky pencil that gives a soft blendable gloss of colour. Being the awkward person that I am and also the shade I was sent, I instantly thought this would be brilliant as a highlighting wand of sorts! And I was right. Having more control than a brush loaded with highlighter, I found this perfect for dotting the inner corners of eyes, Cupid's bow and centre of eyelids. Obviously this melts into soft gloss upon body heat so I'd use it wisely and where it wouldn't smudge too badly. 

£13.00 in Debenhams online in 5 shades.

Now it's easy to say wow this is nice and all but for me, the proof is in the pudding. so as a MUA, I often take new products to my shoots to trial and see if they're suitable for my style of work. So here's a shoot I did yesterday using my new CK One goodies! I was so excited that I forgot to take a before/after hence why I named this post Face Of The Week and not Before/After! Meet Sami in her first look using other products.
Foundation: YSL Le Teint Touche Eclat, Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua, DiorSkin Nude Skin-Glowing Makeup, Givenchy Mister Light.
Eyes: MAC Taupe Blush, CK One Gloss Eyecolour in 800 Ultra, Clarins Wonder Length Mascara in Black.
Eyebrows: Anastasia Brow Wiz in Ash Blonde, MAC Clear Brow Fix.
Cheeks: MAC Taupe Blush, CK One GLoss Eyecolour in 800 Ultra.
Lips:  CK One GLoss Eyecolour in 800 Ultra, CK One Pure Colour Lipstick in 110 Wow & 410 Wanted.
Powder: Jurlique Rose Silk Finishing Powder.

And now why did I talk about CK One products when the look was done using something else? Purely because I did a second look on Sami when the brown wig came off and I did her eyes using the CK One quad. I've included photos taken with a constant light and flash to show how the shimmer and glitter picks up in photos.
Eyes: CK One Powder Eyeshadow Quad 100 Nymphete.
Cheeks: Dior Rosy Glow in Petal.
Lips: MAC Cream Colour Base in Nude.

So everything else is the same as before when Sami had her brown wig except the addition of the above products. I added the blush as her natural blond hair meant that a flush of colour would be needed. I also finger applied the Champagne part of the quad on the centre of the movable lid, to catch light whenever she blinked.

What do you think? I love how pure and simple this look is and to me reflects the philosophy of CK One cosmetics. Is CK One a brand that you would try and look into incorporating into your daily makeup? I think it's lovely and very wearable and great as part of a pro MUA's kit. As always I'd love to hear your thoughts and comments.