Showing posts with label Chanel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chanel. Show all posts

Monday, 22 July 2013

Before/After: Natural but Not Boring!

Once again pardon the lack of posts, it's been incredibly busy and also London's experiencing some nice weather at last, so I'm spending every spare moment in the sunshine charging up! On a serious note, I've been working non stop and the thought of coming home after a long day's work and doing a post about work isn't the first and foremost on my agenda I will admit!

Anyhow, here's a lovely and pretty look I did recently on a shoot where I was asked to keep it natural but not naked. It's nothing amazing but I would say it's my most done look in my repertoire. It's the kind of look that makes everyone the better enhanced version of themselves. It's natural and the key is to keep everything sheer and to enhance the features. So perfect for a summer's evening when you don't want to wear too much.

I can't remember the model we had but she was beautiful and lovely so let's call her Jo!
Skin Prep: Bioderma Sensibio H2O, Emma Hardie Hydrating Lighter Lotion, Bioderma Sébium Pore Refiner, Dior Creme De Rose Lip Balm.

For the look I didn't want too much shine on the skin. I wanted the makeup to look subdued and diffused. And that affected my prep. As a MUA I once again state the importance of prepping the skin according to how the model's skin is and also how you want the finished look to look. Jo had young slightly greasy skin so I gave her a thin layer of hydrating lotion and then used Sébium as a primer to mattify and keep skin shine-free. Here's the final look with different light.
Foundation: DiorSkin Nude Skin-Glowing Foundation, Clinique Airbrush Concealer.
Eyes: MAC Eye Kohl in Teddy, MAC Blush in Taupe, L'Oréal Paris Volume Million Lashes in Excess Black.
Eyebrows: Tom Ford Brow Pencil in Taupe, Givenchy Mister Eyebrow Fixing Pencil.
Cheeks: Chanel Soleil Tan De Chanel, MAC Blush in Taupe, Highlighter.
Lips: LipLiner, MAC Lipstick in Faux.
Powder: Jurlique Rose Silk Finishing Powder.

Here's a look from another angle.

So what do you think? A doable look for the everyday woman? I think so. That's it for now. As soon as my shoots get published, I'll be able to hopefully do more Before/After posts. Thanks everyone!

Saturday, 22 June 2013

Before/After: Bronzed Goddess

If you follow me on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook or whatever social media platform, you'd probably have unfollowed me by now due to the onslaught of pictures of my recent trip to Ibiza! Hehe well if you haven't you are lovely people for indulging me!

One of the perks of this job is to be able to go away with incredible people to amazing locations to shoot. It's a change and a most refreshing one working in a different climate and country. I've forgotten how beautiful this little Spanish island is! I can't show you the rest of the shoots yet as they are due to come out very soon. I can however show you this one, I think...

So on another hot blazing morning, we set out to another amazing villa perched on the side of a cliff with an infinity pool that flowed towards the horizon. I got so excited and distracted that I forgot to take a before picture of our gorgeous model, Spanish babe Alicia! Before we meet her, have a look at some of the pictures of the villa and also the incredible product that kept Alicia and I sun-safe and moisturised! La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL SPF50+ Oil.
 Right this is a beauty blog of sorts so let's talk about that shall we? I apologise for not having a before but the first look was so natural that I think it will do. I barely used much on Alicia for the first look and it took all of 15 minutes to do!
Skin Prep: Bioderma Sensibio H2O, Alpha-H Daily Essential Moisturiser SPF50+, La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL SPF50+ Extreme Tinted Fluid, Clinique SPF 35 Targetted Protection Stick.

Foundation: Smidgen of DiorSkin Nude Skin-Glowing Foundation, Givenchy Mister Bright, DiorSkin Sculpt Concealer.
Eyes: PIXI Silky Eye Pencil in Black Cocoa, L'Oréal Paris Volume Million Lashes in Excess Black.
Eyebrows: Anastasia Brow Wiz in Brunette, MAC Brow Fix in Clear.
Cheeks: Chanel Soleil Tan De Chanel, Kryolan Lip N' Cheek in Freesia, Highlighter.
Lips: Highlighter, MAC Lip Conditioner.

There you go, such a simple look that looks amazing and perfect for the summer/beach.

After the first few shots were done, we bumped up the hair and makeup to go into full-on glamazon mode! It didn't take much to transform Alicia into something quite stunning!
Skin: I patted on a little of the La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL Oil, especially on the forehead, tops of the cheekbones and chin. Then buffed in a little foundation, not much, like a drop.
Eyes: PIXI Silky Eye Pencil in Black Cocoa, Makeup Atelier Palette in T24 Urban Grey, MAC Pigment in Antique Gold, Sleek Gold Eyeliner, L'Oréal Volume Million Lashes in Excess Black, tiny drop of oil on the lid.
Eyebrows: Bit more of the Brow Wiz from Anastasia.
Cheeks: Cargo Blush in Laguna.
Lips: Ultimate Lipliner, Givenchy Le Rouge in Beige Mousseline.

And here's a gorgeous close-up.
I used no powder as I felt there wasn't a need. I wanted the skin to look dewy and glowing. What do you think? Pretty hot right? I loved doing this look on Alicia, she was perfect as a Bronzed Goddess!

Tuesday, 4 June 2013

Before/After: The English Rose/Aristocrat

On a recent fashion shoot, I was asked to create a look for a label that wanted something quintessentially British. Words such as English Rose, Aristocrat, Country Manors, Effortless, Classy and Natural were shouted out during our morning brief. Well, first thoughts went straight to our dear monarch obviously and then I thought of amazing British models such as  Stella Tenant and Saffron Aldridge. These women carried something quite special in the sense that they weren't just beautiful women, they also had a certain quality. A quality that made you believe that they were just as comfortable strutting the runways of the fashion capitals as they were in a pair of wellies walking on the moors or roaming their country estates. Strong women who were also mothers and were not afraid of getting their hands dirty mucking about with their beautiful children. Hah! I tend to let my mind roam a bit far!

Anyway I met our gorgeous model Alyssa, an American, but she had that same beautiful pale freckly luminous skin and fair colouring as an English rose. So we decided that we wanted a light little liner flicked at the end, just a little one. A flushed cheek like she's been walking in the windy countryside and a slightly stained rose-hued lip. Subtle, very classy and ultimately womanly and beautiful! Meet Alyssa.
Face Prep: Lancome Galatéis Douceur, Bioderma Sensibio H2O, Emma Hardie Lighter Lotion, Emma Hardie Moringa & Rose Treatment Hydrating Lip Balm, Face Primer.

I really wanted to keep Alyssa's skin translucent and sheer as I wanted to see her gorgeous freckles. She had lovely skin anyway except for a bit of redness so I didn't need to use too much product.

Here's the finished look.
Foundation: Kesalan Patharan Liquid Foundation, Givenchy Mister Bright, DiorSkin Sculpt Concealer.
Eyes: Make-Up Atelier 5 Shadow Palette in T24 Urban Grey, Illamasqua Precision Gel Liner, Chanel Illusion D'Ombre in Fantasme, Clarins Wonder Length Mascara in Black.
Eyebrows: Anastasia Brow Wiz in  Brunette, MAC Brow Fix in Clear.
Cheeks: Kryolan Lip N' Cheek in Poppy, Highlighter.
Lips: Highlighter, Krolan Lip N' Cheek in Poppy, Givenchy Le Rouge in Grenat Initié, Emma Hardie Lip Balm patted in.
Powder: Jurlique Rose Silk Finishing Powder.

Here's another angle and also a close up.

So what do you think? A lightly glamorous look that is natural and also very flattering. A little retro but yet also very modern in texture. I'd love to hear your thoughts and comments please. Hope you like the look!


Friday, 24 May 2013

Latest Kit Acquisitions: Before/After: Fierce Pink and Blush

With all the Spring collections coming out in shops, it is usually unavoidable to get pink in there somewhere. Don't get me wrong, I love the colour pink but when it comes to eyes, it usually scares me a little bit. Don't ask me why I just shy away from it as an everyday eyeshadow colour, I think in the 90s I was told it makes eyes look sore and it's stuck with me ever since! Go figure!

So when Chanel sent their summer collections and I was sent their new Stylo Eyeshadow Pens in Jade Shore, Black Stream and Pink Lagoon, it did send me into a minute little panic. What do I do with shimmery pink?! Well undeterred I was determined to use it and when I did, I was so glad I did! I'm jumping ahead of myself so let me show you the 3 pens I was sent.

Chanel Stylo Eyeshadow (Fresh Effect Eyeshadow)
Available in 6 colours, these eyeshadow pens twist up and create a gorgeous sheeny wash of colour and according to the model feels cool and like a liquid. So it feel lovely and fresh on the eyelids.

RRP £23.00 available 31st May 2013.

Kryolan Lip N' Cheek

Any MUA will know of Kryolan, the German stalwart of the TV, Film and Theatre makeup world. After their rebranding last year, they have been launching some very ingenious and highly usable products. These Lip n' Cheek colours are exactly what the name says it is. Water-resistant and easy to blend and spread, they come in 11 beautiful shades from naturals to brights. I was quite eager to try them as soon as I got them. 

RRP £16.50 for 10ml and available from Charles Fox.

Right now to the fun bit. I was recently reunited with Maja the gorgeous Dutch beauty I showcased in my Technicolour/Stepford Wife post. She has returned and still as beautiful as last year and might I even say, better! 

Since we were shooting lots of florals and prints, I didn't want her to look too pretty and girly. Add pink eyeshadow (eek!) I was even more adamant in making her look intense and tough. So what did I do? I thought about what I've seen everyday women do to their eye makeup that I find so hard and harsh and I thought overly-lined eyes! Yes! I usually dislike it when women with small eyes line their eyes inside and out with a harsh black. It's counter-productive and make their small eyes even smaller.  So that's what I did to make the pink Chanel pen less girly. It had to work right? 

Meet Maja.
Face Prep: Bioderma Sensibio H2O, Emma Hardie Lighter Lotion, Emma Hardie Moringa & Rose Treatment Lip Balm, Face Primer (a new product that I'm developing that I can't disclose yet).

Now the finished look.

Foundation: Kesalan Patharan Liquid Foundation, Givenchy Mr Light, DiorSkin Sculpt Concealer.

Eyes: Chanel Stylo Eyeshadow in Pink Lagoon, Givenchy Magic Kajal in Magic Black, Illamasqua Precision Gel Liner, L'Oreal Paris Volume Million Lashes Noir Excess, Highlighter (a new highlighter I'm developing that's amazing, all will be revealed!).
Eyebrows: Shu Uemura Hard Formula Pencil in Seal Brown, SUQQU Eyebrow Liquid Pen in Brown, MAC Brow Fix in Clear.
Cheeks: Kryolan Lip N' Cheek in Rose and Freesia, Highlighter (again!) on cheekbones and nose bridge.
Lips: Ultimate Lip Liner (my new product , will reveal asap), Emma Hardie Lip Balm, Highlighter(!).
Powder: Jurlique Rose Silk Finishing Powder.

Here's a shot of Maja with flash and then a close up of the eye to show the shimmer.
What do you think? I think it's still pretty but yet tough and with an edge. I can't wait to use the other colours from both Chanel and Kryolan. As always I'd love to hear what you think, so don't be shy.

Sunday, 7 April 2013

Before/After: Aviator Beauty: A Tribute to the Beauty of Katherine Hepburn

I recently did a shoot in the hangar at Goodwood Flight Academy. And amidst the beautiful old planes I was totally inspired by one of my favourite screen sirens of old Hollywood, Katherine Hepburn. So just as well that stylist David Hawkins and photographer Andy Barnham had similar ideas!

Katherine Houghton Hepburn, star, legend and strong woman, made so many films, more than I care to admit to knowing and watching. With her angular jaw, chiseled cheekbones and expressive features, I have always thought of her as an unconventional beauty. She challenged the stereotype of screen actresses by defying studio execs and carved out an epic career playing strong and independent women in film and TV. Taking this philosophy throughout her own personal life and her penchant for slacks, suits and shirts, I have always thought of her as remarkably handsome. So when I had the chance to channel a bit of her presence on this shoot, I jumped at the chance. I apologise, I could go on and on when it comes to the old screen sirens of Hollywood!

Our model the gorgeous Felicity reminded me so much of Hepburn. She too was vivacious, strong and such a trooper, not complaining once about the cold in the hangar! And it was bloody freezing! So it seemed the perfect culmination of factors! Let me introduce the stunning Felicity.
Face Prep: Lancome Galatéis Douceur Facial Cleanser, Bioderma Sensibio H2O, Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre, Emma Hardie Moringa & Rose Treatment Lip Balm.

Let me explain why I chose the above products. The environment I work in, the condition of the model's skin and also the products I choose to use after prep always affects what I use. So we were in a freezing hangar in the winter with no heating, Felicity had recently suffered a breakout due to a reaction to some products used on her at another job, and I wanted to keep the look quite soft, glowy and dewy.

Let me also touch briefly on the subject of hair. Yeah I had to do hair on this shoot as well. It was fairly simple and I prepped the hair with Bumble & Bumble Prep Spray, dried it with a hairdryer then tonged sections using my favourite big barrelled Babyliss Pro Ceramic Tongs and clipped the sections up whilst I carried on with makeup.

The look is very simple, glowy skin, softly defined eyes using very soft brown/tan shades and a light coat of mascara to frame the eyes. Felicity has lush brows so I kept it softly defined and brushed up to maximise the fullness of it. The focal point would be the lips. I wanted a red but not just any red. I wanted a Brick, Terracotta kind of red. A perfect combination of red, brown and orange. And here's how the look turned out.
Foundation: DiorSkin Nude Skin-Glowing Foundation, Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua, Givenchy Mister Bright, DiorSkin Sculpt Concealer.
Eyes: MAC Paint Pot in Groundwork, MAC Cream Colour Base in Mid-Tone Sepia, Pixi silky Eye Pencil in Black Cocoa, Paris-Berlin Beige Pencil, Clarins Wonder Length Mascara in Black, Clinique Bottom Lash Mascara.
Eyebrows: Anastasia Brow Wiz in Ash Blonde, MAC Brow Fix in Clear.
Cheeks: Chanel Soleil Tan De Chanel, MAC Blush in Taupe, Burberry Fresh Glow.
Lips: MAC Lip Mix in Red, Orange and Brown, OCC Lip Tar in Traffic, YSL Lip Liner in Cognac.
Powder: SUQQU Nuancing Loose Powder in Natural (kept to a minimum).

Here's a shot of Felicity in natural daylight.
I finished the hair by unpinning the curls, brushing out and applying Structure Dust and hairspray and then pinning into a bun and finger finishing the front. I wanted it to be soft, wispy and textured so the light would catch it and create a soft halo-like quality. Have a look at Felicity doing her thing on the wing of one of the planes wearing the most handsome orange jacket and white palazzo trousers, looking every bit the part of a screen siren!
What do you think guys? Did we capture Katherine Hepburn's fire and beauty? Her perfect blend of masculine beauty and astounding presence? I love this look, it's so simple but yet modern and classic. I would love to hear your thoughts and comments!

Tuesday, 2 April 2013

Before/After: Dark Circles and Bright Lips

When you get a model with dark circles, sometimes there really isn't anything you can do but make the best of situations. And such was the case with our Russian beauty today. A mere teenager with bad eating habits but blessed with beauty of face. To be honest weren't we all grumpy teens once? As a MUA sometimes there's not a lot you can but use concealer to the best of your ability and then focus on other features. Our model was absolutely stunning and her lips just screamed for bright lips and that was what I did.

First let us meet our model. For the life of god I cannot remember her name, partly because she had a most peculiar way of treating people and questionable social skills! 
Face Prep: Bioderma Crealine H2O, Emma Hardie Lighter Hydrating Lotion, Bioderma Sébium Pore Refiner, Emma Hardie Moringa & Rose Treatment Lip Balm.

So beautiful face but teenage spots and dark circles. Not a bad canvas to work with to be honest. So my aim was to get skin looking gorgeous and try to take away some of the darkness under the eyes. I had a chat with the photographer and mentioned my concerns and together we decided that a lot of help could be achieved with the right lighting (MUAs it is not a bad thing to be able to chat to the photographer you work with when it comes to certain concerns). So here's the after shot with some flash from my Iphone.
Foundation: Giorgio Armani Silk Luminous Foundation, DiorSkin Nude Skin-Glowing Makeup, Givenchy Mister Bright, Laura Mercier Secret Camouflage.
Eyes: MAC Paint Pot in Groundwork, MAC Blush in Taupe, Clarins Wonder Length Mascara in Black, Burberry Fresh Glow.
Eyebrows: Anastasia Brow Wiz in Medium Ash, MAC Browfix in Clear.
Cheeks: Chanel Bronze Universal, MAC Blush in Taupe, Burberry Fresh Glow.
Lips: MAC Lip Tint in Orange, MAC Morange, OCC Lip Tar in Traffic.
Powder: Jurlique Rose Silk Finishing Powder.

The trick was to keep the face makeup simple, especially round the eyes. So I used the slight darker tones of her eyes as a natural shadow and brightened just under the eyes with a light reflecting brightener and concealer. The main focus I wanted to be the lips as she had gorgeous ones. So after the orange I patted in and buffed in the cult favourite MAC Ruby Woo.
Thoughts? Not too bad right? I'd love to hear from you guys so send me some comments and questions. 

Sunday, 31 March 2013

Before/After: One Face Two Looks/All About Colour & Texture

So Spring is upon us, apparently... although cold and frosty still and Easter has come and gone, work waits for no one and I'm already shooting Spring/Summer looks. A few weeks back I was asked to create a few looks for a Spring shoot. I didn't want to go down the route of flushed cheeks and glossy skin again so I decided to play with textures instead. What do I mean by textures? Think matte, glossy, semi-matte, dewy, they're all textures. It's a great way of doing a normal everyday look and making it look modern and with a twist.

Without further delay, let's meet Monika.

Face Prep: Lancome Galatéis Douceur Soft Cleansing Fluid, Bioderma Crealine H2O, Emma Hardie Lighter Hydrating Lotion, Bioderma Sébium Pore Refiner, Emma Hardie Moringa & Rose Treatment Lip Balm.

Monika's a beauty and is stunning without much help from me. Her skin is however slightly oily with a few dilated pores. So I had the chance to use my new Bioderma product which I got a few days ago. It acted like a primer by smoothing over the skin and creating a silky soft canvas to work on.

For the first look, I wanted to use neutral colours and creating a warm healthy brown look but then add on a dewy texture onto the eyes to give it a gloss and catch the light. 
Foundation: CK One 3 in 1 Face Makeup, Givenchy Mister Light.
Eyes: MAC Paintpots in Ground Work, CK One Gloss Eye Colour in 800 Ultra, Suqqu Eyeliner Creamy in Brown, Clarins Wonder Length Mascara in Black, Chanel Illusion D'Ombre in Fantasme, Bourjois Effet 3D Lipgloss in Brun Poétic.
Eyebrows: Anastasia Brow Wiz in Ash Blonde, MAC Clear Brow Fix.
Cheeks: Chanel Bronze Universal, Madina Shiny Stick in 001.
Lips: CK One Pure Colour Lipstick in 410 Wanted, CK One Gloss Eye Colour in 800 Ultra.
Powder: Jurlique Rose Silk Finishing Powder.

Here's a close up with a hard flash to really see the effect of all the gloss on the eye and skin.
For the second look I wanted to use colour but soft pastels and in powdery textures instead and maybe keep the glossiness somewhere unexpected. So I use sorbet-like colours that were pure and glowy to make sure it didn't look too washed out and dabbed bright coloured lipstick randomly to create a blurred but distinct mouth.
Face: Same as above.
Eyes: An assortment of Shu Uemura Shadows in Mauve, Lilac, Pink and Greys, MAC Pro Paint Stick in White, 3 coats of Clarins Wonder Length Mascara in Black.
Eyebrows: Estee Lauder Maximum Cover Foundation.
Cheeks: MAC Lip Glass.
Lips: Top Shop Creme Lipcolour in Tawny, MAC Lipmix in Orange, MAC Lipstick in Pink Nouveau, CK One Gloss Eye Colour in 800 Ultra.
Powder: Jurlique Rose Finishing Powder.

Here's a close up of the lips. Someone commented that it was an homage to Pointillism, an art movement/technique of dotting colours to form an image and I suppose it is to a certain degree! 
And a shot of the gloss on the cheeks to catch light.
So what do you think? Does it say Spring to you? As always I love getting feedback and comments. Thanks guys!

 

Saturday, 16 March 2013

CK One: Brand Revisited & Face Of The Week

In it's 3rd incarnation I think, CK One is on a roll. It's been many years since Calvin Klein first delved into cosmetics. I will admit I am the last one to actually know and try any of the products in any of it's various stages. So when sent a recent collection to trial for work, I set about running it through it's paces. And I LOVE it!

The CK image is always one of clean, pure lines with a slight minimalist edge to it, I think. So it seems to reason that they would approach their cosmetic venture with this philosophy. As far as I can see, and this is through playing with the few bits I have and also looking at the Debenhams website where they are currently sold, colours seem crisp and pure with no wishy washy shades. I will look into the range properly in the next few weeks but 2 items currently catch my eye from which I was sent.
CK One Powder Eyeshadow Quad 100 Nymphete
Nestled inside a sturdy plastic and rubber palette lies 4 gorgeously wearable eyeshadows in a matte pale pink, a matte dusky pink, a glittery champagne and a shimmery coppery rouge. At first glance I thought the champagne looked a bit too glittery for my liking but when applied and pressed in with a finger, it melted to a wearable gilt that is perfect for adding a shine.

 £25.00 in Debenhams online in 9 colour combinations.


CK One Gloss Eyecolour 800 Ultra
A sturdy chunky pencil that gives a soft blendable gloss of colour. Being the awkward person that I am and also the shade I was sent, I instantly thought this would be brilliant as a highlighting wand of sorts! And I was right. Having more control than a brush loaded with highlighter, I found this perfect for dotting the inner corners of eyes, Cupid's bow and centre of eyelids. Obviously this melts into soft gloss upon body heat so I'd use it wisely and where it wouldn't smudge too badly. 

£13.00 in Debenhams online in 5 shades.

Now it's easy to say wow this is nice and all but for me, the proof is in the pudding. so as a MUA, I often take new products to my shoots to trial and see if they're suitable for my style of work. So here's a shoot I did yesterday using my new CK One goodies! I was so excited that I forgot to take a before/after hence why I named this post Face Of The Week and not Before/After! Meet Sami in her first look using other products.
Foundation: YSL Le Teint Touche Eclat, Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua, DiorSkin Nude Skin-Glowing Makeup, Givenchy Mister Light.
Eyes: MAC Taupe Blush, CK One Gloss Eyecolour in 800 Ultra, Clarins Wonder Length Mascara in Black.
Eyebrows: Anastasia Brow Wiz in Ash Blonde, MAC Clear Brow Fix.
Cheeks: MAC Taupe Blush, CK One GLoss Eyecolour in 800 Ultra.
Lips:  CK One GLoss Eyecolour in 800 Ultra, CK One Pure Colour Lipstick in 110 Wow & 410 Wanted.
Powder: Jurlique Rose Silk Finishing Powder.

And now why did I talk about CK One products when the look was done using something else? Purely because I did a second look on Sami when the brown wig came off and I did her eyes using the CK One quad. I've included photos taken with a constant light and flash to show how the shimmer and glitter picks up in photos.
Eyes: CK One Powder Eyeshadow Quad 100 Nymphete.
Cheeks: Dior Rosy Glow in Petal.
Lips: MAC Cream Colour Base in Nude.

So everything else is the same as before when Sami had her brown wig except the addition of the above products. I added the blush as her natural blond hair meant that a flush of colour would be needed. I also finger applied the Champagne part of the quad on the centre of the movable lid, to catch light whenever she blinked.

What do you think? I love how pure and simple this look is and to me reflects the philosophy of CK One cosmetics. Is CK One a brand that you would try and look into incorporating into your daily makeup? I think it's lovely and very wearable and great as part of a pro MUA's kit. As always I'd love to hear your thoughts and comments.

 

Saturday, 1 December 2012

Before/After: A Glowy Burnished Look for Black Women

I adore doing makeup on anyone but have a soft spot for doing makeup on black women. The texture of the skin, features and colours is so different from other skin colours and as a result, you can do things that wouldn't look as dramatic. Anyway without gushing on and on, let's meet Philomena!
Face Prep: Lancome Galatéis Douceur Soft Cleansing Fluid, Bioderma Crealine H2O, Emma Hardie Lighter Hydrating Lotion, Illamasqua Matt Primer (on shiny areas where you can see), Dior Creme De Rose.

As you can see our Philomena is a beauty and except for a minimal amount of uneven skin tone there really isn't anything to do. Now I did go for a glowy and contoured look, and by contoured it is not to give Philomena "white" features. Contouring gives anyone dimension but on black skin, it also gives warmth as well as creating a 3D effect. I'm sure you'll understand when you see the results.
Foundation: Estee Lauder Double Wear Concealer, Chanel Perfection Lumiere, MAC Studio Sculpt, Iman Luxury Radiance Liquid Makeup.
Eyes: YSL Waterproof Eye Pencil in Black Ink & Patent Leather & Luminescent Gold, Bobbi Brown Eyeshadow in Rich Brown, Madina Shiny Stick in 002, YSL Luxurious Mascara Shocking Volume in Deep Black.  
Eyebrows: Anastasia Brow Wiz in Brunette, Bobbi Brown Eyeshadow in Rich Brown, MAC Brow Fix in Clear.
Cheek: Bobbi Brown Eyeshadow in Rich Brown, Daniel Sandler WaterColour in Dare, Madina Shiny Stick in 002.
Lips: Mac Lip Pencil in Mahogony, SmashBox Nude Lip Pencil in Pinkish Nude & Soft Nude, Mac Lip Conditioner in Petting Pink.
Powder: Shu Uemura Face Powder in Peach, Iman Semi Loose Powder in various shades.

Here's a shot with daylight & flash to show how it looks in photography.
So what do you think? Any thoughts on contouring for black skin? I'd love to hear comments and feedback. I hope you like the look!

Sunday, 30 September 2012

Before/After: A Liner & Red Lip Variation

Is there anything more striking and classic as a red lip and an lined eye? I highly doubt it. I call up this combination more than any other makeup look in my repertoire. I do get a little tired of this look sometimes, not often but once in awhile I do. So I try to make it as interesting as possible by changing various aspects of it. Simple little things that might be utterly unnoticeable to the general public except to a MUA obsessed with details and textures!

So once again I was asked to do said combination and I had a pretty young model to work on. So instead of a full blown glamorous red lip/liner combo, I chose to tweak the liner into a different shape and keep the skin looking ethereally sheeny. It's very hard to explain this but my main concern was how it would look on the final pictures. I hope my behind-the-scene photos will do it justice. Anyway here's Alex without makeup.
Face Prep: Alpha-H Age Delay Cleansing Oil, Decléor Aroma Cleanse Cleansing Water, Decléor Life Radiance Double Radiance Cream, Shu Uemura Brightening UV Under Base Mousse, Decléor Nourishing Lip Balm.
 
As you can see Alex is young and has beautifully clear skin with a bit of darkness under the eye. I didn't want to wing the liner out like how you'd naturally do on a glamorous look. Instead I wanted to do a dip downwards or an inverted liner focusing on the lower eye instead. Hopefully the following pictures will help explain it better.
 
Here's Alex after makeup.
Foundation: Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua, Givenchy Mr Light, YoungBlood Natural Mineral Foundation.
Eyes: YSL Dare To Glow in No 1, YSL Waterproof Eye Pencil in Black Ink, MAC Fluidline in Black Track, YSL Volume Effet Faux Cils Shocking Mascara in Deep Black, Magnifibres, Clinique Bottom Lash Mascara in Black.
Eyebrows: Shu Uemura Hard Formula Brow Pencil in Seal Brown, Gold Mascara.
Cheeks: MAC Taupe Blush, Burberry Fresh Glow, YSL Dare To Glow in No 1.
Lips: MAC Lipmix in Crimson.
Powder:  Jurlique Rose Silk Finishing Powder.
 
Here's a closeup of the look.
And one of Alex dressed in character and looking down.
What do you think? Enough of a twist on this classic look to make it look fresh and modern? 
 

Tuesday, 31 July 2012

Before/After: A Multi-Faceted Blue Jewelled Eye

Often whilst doing makeup for shoots, I find myself noticing certain trends emerging from the briefs. After so many years I still find it slightly magical that everyone seems to know what the trends for the next season are. Of course I forget that there are trends companies whose sole job is to predict and forecast the upcoming trends for future seasons. And since I work at fashion weeks which works a season ahead, I am in a very privileged position to get a peek at what is coming up in the next collections! Anyway I digress, a certain theme I have noticed is jewelled tones. There is definitely a nod towards bejewelled tones in clothes, makeup and even hair!

So it was rather opportune that at a recent shoot I was asked to do a strong blue eye but the client didn't want anything graphic, they wanted it strong but soft at the same time. So that ruled out hard edges and graphic shapes. When I suggested doing a jewelled tone eye that was strong but yet soft and wearable, everyone was happy and that was decided.

Let me introduce Ilse, a truly handsome model!
Face Prep: Alpha-H Age Delay Cleansing Oil, Decléor Aroma Cleanse Cleansing Water, Decléor Life Radiance Double Radiance Cream, Shu Uemura Brightening UV Under Base Mousse, Decléor Nourishing Lip Balm.

Isn't she handsome? I use the word handsome because Ilse to me had beautifully chiseled and full features that transcended genders. Some would call it androgyny I suppose. She would make a most beautiful boy or a stunning gorgeous woman, depending on makeup and lighting. Anyway here's how Ilse looked after I completed the eye.
Face: YSL Le Teint Touché Eclat,  Givenchy Mr Light, YoungBlood Natural Mineral Foundation.
Eyes: Pixi Endlessly Silky Eye Pen in No 3 Black Tulip, MAC Paint Stick in Marine Ultra, Laura Mercier Baked Eye Colour in Lagoon, Shu Uemura Eye Shadow in Vivid Blue 665, Makeup Forever Aqua Colour in No 20 Intense Blue, YSL Volume Effet Faux Cils Shocking Mascara in Deep Black, Magnifibres, Paris-Berlin Beige Eye Pencil, Clinique Bottom Lash Mascara in Black, Madina Shiny Stick in 100.
Eyebrows: Shu Uemura Hard Formula Brown No 3, Gold Mascara.
Cheeks: Chanel Bronze Universal, Burberry Fresh Glow, MAC Taupe Blush.
Lips: Burberry Fresh Glow, Rodial Glam Balm Lip, MAC Tinted Lip Conditioner in Petting Pink.
Powder: Jurlique Rose Silk Finishing Powder.

Here are a couple of close up photos to see the full effect.
And an even closer shot.
And more close ups with lids down.
I suppose most people wouldn't bat an eyelid at the thought of doing a jewel-toned eye but I wanted to express the point of creating dimension. I rarely use just one product, I find that in shoots, that creates a rather flat finish. Personally I like using similar shades in various finishes to create dimension and texture. So even though I wanted a blue eye, I have used about 5 different blue products to create the final look. Just like how the more facets a gemstone has, the sparklier and more brilliant it becomes, I think the same applies to makeup.

Thursday, 24 May 2012

Before/After: Sizzling Summer Beauty

I've just got home from 4 days of shoots in gorgeous Puglia, Italy. We stayed in the most amazing resort which was basically it's own town, it was that big with everything you could think off! Villas, suites, restaurants, pools and spas. Anyway I got distracted, one of the shoots was  swimwear shoot. The weather was hot, correction, it was scorching! Which meant that as the MUA I had to look after the welfare of my model, to make sure that she didn't get burnt!

My inspiration for the makeup was gorgeous skin, enhancing features and just making her look amazing! Meet gorgeous Simone!
Face Prep: Emma Hardie Moringa Ceansing Balm, Emma Hardie Hydrating Lighter Lotion, Shu Uemura UV Under Base Mousse SPF 30, Rodial Glam Balm Lip.

As you can see Simone has a bit of redness in certain areas but nothing of any worry really. As soon as the Shu Uemura Mousse went on, her skin looked more even and smooth. I really love this product as it gives skin a gorgeous glow and evens out redness and ensures that foundation goes on like a dream. Plus the high SPF is a godsend and mousse textures helps keep shine at bay! Have a look at the results of the after shots.
Face: YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat, Chanel Vitalumiere Aqua, Givenchy Mr Light Instant Light Corrective Pen, Chanel Bronze Unversal.
Eyes: Shu Uemura Eyeshadow Light Pink, Tom Ford Cognac Sable Eyeshadow Quad, Stila Major Lash Mascara in Black, Clinique Underlash Mascara.
Eyebrows: MAC Clear Brow Gel.
Cheeks: Chanel Bronze Universal, YSL Terre Saharienne Bronzing Powder in No 1 Tanned.
Lips: YSL Rouge Pur Couture in Blond Ingenu & Beige Tribute.
Powder: YSL Semi Loose Powder in Sand.

Here's a picture of Simone in action, 4 hours after the makeup was done.
Gorgeous huh? Makeup stayed put and I barely had to powder. This was probably due to the combination of the products I used. So if and when you're in a hot environment, it is definitely worth thinking about how to layer your products to beat the heat and remain looking fresh and amazing. Any comments and questions are most welcome.

Saturday, 5 May 2012

Before/After: Return To The Smokey Eye

Smokey Eyes, probably the most popular makeup look ever, contested closely only by the flicked liner look. To be honest I haven't really done a proper smokey eye for awhile so it was rather lovely to be able to get to do 2 in the same week!

Although classed as smokey eyes, I deliberately did both looks quite different, to show that there's always variations in a theme. And that there's always something for anybody.

The first is Emily and my brief was red carpet smokey. I wanted it quite fashiony but yet very beautiful and groomed. I also wanted to keep it looking young so I kept Emily's skin dewy and brows undefined and brushed up. And to carry on the young and slightly nonchalant vibe, I applied layers and layers of black mascara. Meet Emily.
Face Prep: UNE Radiance Refresh Micellar Cleansing Water, Emma Hardie Hydrating Lighter Lotion, Clarins Beauty Flash Balm, Rodial Glam Balm Lip.
 
As you can see, Emily has lovely skin and big eyes and lovely features. The focus of the look is definitely a smokey eye so I kept the lips clean and balmed, to once again bring the look back into a non made-up makeup look. Here's Emily all made up.
Face: YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat, YSL Touche Éclat.  
Eyes: YSL Waterproof Eye Pencil in Patent Leather and Black Ink, Tom Ford Cognac Sable Eye Palette, Chanel Illusion D'Ombre in Fantasme & Mirifique, YSL Volume Effet Faux Cils Shocking Mascara in Deep Black.
Eyebrows: MAC Clear BrowFix.
Cheeks: Tom Ford Shade & Illuminate.
Lips: Rodial Glam Balm Lip, Chanel Illusion D'Ombre in Fantasme.
Powder: SUQQU Nuancing Loose Powder in Natural.

Here's a close up.
What do you guys think? I think this smokey would be perfect for someone who's new to a smokey eye as it is tempered with brown to prevent it from looking too "black". Just remember to keep other parts of the face youthful so it balances the grown up eyes.

Now for the second Smokey Eye, I'd like to introduce you to Bridgett. 
Face Prep: Une Radiance Refresh Micellar Cleansing Water, Emma Hardie Hydrating Lighter Lotion, Clarins Beauty Flash Balm, Rodial Glam Balm Lip.
 
Gorgeous Bridgett from Sweden has a gorgeous face of full features so for this fashion shoot, I wanted a really intense, dark and big smokey eye. But yet beautiful, what other way is there to be? I took the shadow further out and up than what I would usually do on most people. That way it looked almost like a mask but kept it gorgeous by blending the edges. I intensified the smoke after we tested lighting as it wasn't strong enough. Have a look.
Face: YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat, YSL Touche Éclat, Le Maquillage Make Up Mixer.
Eyes: YSL Waterproof Eye Pencil in Black Ink, YSL Pure Chromatics Palettes 8 & 9, YSL Luxurious Mascara Shocking Volume in Deep Black. 
Eyebrows: Just brushed.
Cheeks: Tom Ford Shade & Illuminate.
Lips: YSL Rouge Pur Couture in Blond Ingénu, Madina Shiny Stick in 001.

And now the close up with flash on set. I used no powder and kept the skin quite wet by applying fine layers of Makeup Mixer to catch the light.
Isn't she gorgeous? I love how smoldery she looks, almost a throw back to the 90s glamazonian Supermodels!  Definitely a smokey eye variation for the more daring! 

There you go, two variations of the smokey eye and if you give me chance, I can probably come up with another 10 more! Which would you go for yourself? As always comments and questions are very welcomed!